Belts and Hoses for Cars, Vans and Light Trucks
Easy Life Markets sells belts and hoses for car engines, starting with complete timing belt kits and adding drive belts, coolant hoses and vacuum lines as the range grows. This category covers the rubber parts that keep an engine turning in time and keep its coolant, air and vacuum moving where they should.
What should you buy? Start with the part that is due or showing wear. If your engine uses a timing belt and it has reached the age or distance in your service schedule, buy a complete kit with the tensioner, and a water pump if your engine drives the pump from the timing belt. If a drive belt squeals or a hose is soft, swollen or weeping coolant, replace that part and check its neighbours while you are there. Then match your engine code and part numbers to the product page before you order.
What Is in Our Belts and Hoses Category
This page sits inside our auto parts department. Belts and hoses are wear parts. Every engine has them, they age whether you drive or not, and they are among the most common reasons a car breaks down at the roadside. Grouping them together makes sense because they are usually inspected together and often replaced in the same job.
Right now the range is built around two timing belt kits:
- The Ford Focus 1.5T timing belt kit, a timing belt and tensioner pulley for the newer Focus with the 1.5T or 1.6T turbo petrol engine.
- The KP15688XS timing belt kit with water pump, which includes a timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley and idler pulley, listed under reference numbers KP15688XS and 16105777.
For a deeper guide to that one product type, see our timing belts sub-category. Engines that use a chain instead of a belt are covered in timing chains and belts under engine parts. Pumps and other coolant parts sit in cooling and water pumps. We will add more belts and hoses here as we list them, and the current price and availability are shown on each product page.
The Main Types of Engine Belts
Timing belts
A timing belt is a toothed belt that links the crankshaft to the camshaft or camshafts. Its teeth lock into the sprockets so the valves open and close at the right moment for each piston stroke. It usually sits behind plastic covers at one end of the engine. When it breaks, the engine stops at once, and on many engines the valves and pistons can hit each other. That is why timing belts are changed on a schedule, not when they fail.
Serpentine belts (multi-rib drive belts)
Most modern engines use one long ribbed belt to drive the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor and sometimes the water pump. It snakes around several pulleys, which is where the name comes from. The serpentine belt is kept tight by an automatic tensioner. When it slips you hear a squeal; when it snaps you lose charging and often power steering.
V-belts
Older engines and some machinery use narrower V-shaped belts, often one belt per accessory. They are adjusted by moving the accessory on a slotted bracket. They still turn up on classic cars, some commercial engines and small equipment.
Stretch-fit belts
Some newer engines use an elastic ribbed belt with no tensioner. It is fitted under tension with a special installation tool and is usually not reused once removed. If your engine has one, buy the belt and the fitting tool together.
The Main Types of Engine Hoses
Radiator and coolant hoses
The upper and lower radiator hoses carry coolant between the engine and the radiator. Smaller heater hoses take hot coolant to the heater core inside the cabin. Coolant hoses are moulded to shape, so the bends, lengths and end diameters must match your engine.
Vacuum hoses
Thin rubber or plastic lines carry engine vacuum to the brake servo, emissions valves and various sensors. A cracked vacuum line can cause a rough idle, a hissing noise or a warning light. They are cheap and easy to overlook.
Turbo and intake hoses
Turbocharged engines like the Focus 1.5T use reinforced hoses to carry pressurised air from the turbo to the intercooler and intake. A split boost hose cuts power and often triggers a fault code.
Fuel, oil and power steering hoses
These carry fluids under pressure and need hose rated for that fluid and pressure. They are usually specific to the vehicle and often come with crimped ends or fittings already attached.
Belts and Hoses Compared
| Part | What it does | Common warning signs | What to match when buying |
|---|---|---|---|
| Timing belt | Keeps crankshaft and camshafts in time | Usually none before failure; replace by schedule | Engine code, tooth count, belt width, kit part number |
| Serpentine belt | Drives alternator, AC and other accessories | Squeal, cracks across ribs, glazed sides, frayed edges | Number of ribs, length, accessory layout |
| V-belt | Drives a single accessory | Squeal, sagging, shiny sides | Top width, length, profile |
| Radiator hose | Moves coolant to and from the radiator | Soft or swollen rubber, leaks at clamps, cracks | Shape, end diameters, upper or lower position |
| Heater hose | Feeds coolant to the cabin heater | Weeping at joints, coolant smell inside the car | Length, diameter, connector type |
| Vacuum hose | Carries vacuum to servo, valves and sensors | Hissing, rough idle, warning light | Inner diameter, length, routing |
How to Tell Which Belts and Hoses Your Engine Needs
The quickest route is your engine code. It is often printed on a sticker under the bonnet, stamped on the block or listed in the owner's manual. Many parts are listed by engine, not just by car model, because the same model can be sold with several engines that use different belts and hoses.
Then use part numbers. If you have the old part, look for numbers printed on the belt back or moulded into the hose. Timing kits are usually listed by a kit reference, such as KP15688XS on our water pump kit. Cross-reference numbers help you match a replacement to the kit your vehicle uses. If in doubt, contact us with your vehicle details and the part number you have before you order.
For drive belts, count the ribs and measure the length. Rib count is easy to see on the back of the old belt. Length can be read from the code printed on the belt or measured with a piece of string run around the pulleys along the belt path.
For hoses, note the inner diameter at each end and the overall shape. A moulded radiator hose that is close but not right will kink or rub. Take photos before you remove anything, so you can match the shape and the routing.
Specifications to Check Before You Buy
- Engine fitment. Match the engine code and size, not only the make and model.
- Kit contents. A timing belt kit may contain only the belt and tensioner, or the belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and water pump. Read the list on the product page.
- Belt dimensions. Tooth count and width for a timing belt; rib count and length for a drive belt.
- Hose diameters and shape. Both ends, plus any branches or bends.
- Material. Coolant hoses are usually EPDM rubber; boost hoses may be reinforced rubber or silicone. Use a hose rated for the fluid it carries.
- Reference numbers. Compare the numbers listed on our page with your old part or your parts catalogue.
Why Many Mechanics Replace Belts and Hoses Together
Labour is the big cost in this work. On a timing belt job the covers, drive belt and often an engine mount have to come off. While that is apart, the tensioner, idlers and water pump are in reach. Replacing them at the same time costs little extra in parts and saves doing the same work twice if an old part fails a few months later. That is the thinking behind the KP15688XS kit, which includes the pump, belt and both pulleys.
The same logic applies to hoses. If the coolant is drained for a pump change, it is a good time to replace any hose that is soft, cracked or swollen. Drive belts come off during a timing belt job anyway, so many owners fit a new one if the old one shows wear.
Signs Your Belts and Hoses Need Attention
- A squeal on start-up or when you turn the steering, often a slipping drive belt.
- Cracks across the ribs, missing chunks, shiny glazed sides or frayed edges on a belt.
- A ticking or whirring from the front of the engine, which can point to a worn tensioner or idler bearing.
- Coolant drips under the car, a sweet smell or white crust at hose joints.
- A hose that feels soft and spongy, or hard and crunchy, when squeezed with the engine cold.
- Overheating, a rising temperature gauge or a heater that blows cold.
- A hissing sound or rough idle that suggests a split vacuum line.
Timing belts are the exception. They often give no warning at all. Go by the age and distance interval in your service schedule, whichever comes first, and replace the belt even if it looks fine from the outside.
Fitting Advice for Belts and Hoses
Work on a cold engine. Hot coolant is under pressure and can scald. Disconnect the battery before you work near the alternator or the drive belt.
Before removing a drive belt, take a photo or sketch the routing. Many engines have a diagram on a sticker under the bonnet, but stickers fade. Release the tensioner with the correct tool, slip the belt off and check every pulley spins smoothly and quietly with no wobble.
A timing belt job needs more care. The camshafts and crankshaft must be locked in their timing positions before the old belt comes off, and the new belt must be tensioned to the engine maker's figure. Many engines need specific locking tools. We list several in our tools and equipment section, including the EA211 timing tool kit for VW Group engines and the 15-piece timing belt adjuster tool kit for tensioners in tight spaces. The crankshaft pulley holding tool stops the pulley turning while you undo its bolt. After fitting, turn the engine by hand through two full turns and check the timing marks line up again before you start it.
For hoses, use new clamps where the old ones are rusted or weak. Push the hose fully onto its pipe, position the clamp just behind the bead, and do not overtighten a screw clamp so far that it cuts into the rubber. Refill with the correct coolant, bleed out air as your service manual describes and check for leaks once the engine is warm.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Changing a timing belt but reusing an old tensioner or idler. A worn bearing can destroy a new belt.
- Buying by car model alone when the model came with several engines.
- Letting oil or coolant soak a new belt. Fix leaks first, because contamination shortens belt life.
- Prising a belt over a pulley with a screwdriver. It can damage the cords inside the belt.
- Mixing coolant types without checking what your engine needs.
- Skipping the hand-turn check after a timing job.
Caring for Belts and Hoses Between Services
A quick look under the bonnet every few months catches most problems early. With the engine off and cool, check the drive belt for cracks and the hoses for leaks, swelling and rubbing. Keep the coolant at the right level and changed at the interval your manual gives, because old coolant can attack rubber from the inside. Keep the engine bay reasonably clean so leaks are easy to spot. If a car sits for long periods, belts and hoses still age, so follow the time interval as well as the mileage.
Who This Category Is For
Our belts and hoses range suits home mechanics doing their own servicing, small workshops looking for kits matched by reference number, and owners who want to buy parts before taking the car to a local garage. If you are new to timing work, a drive belt or a hose is a good first job. A timing belt is a bigger task and needs the right tools and the engine maker's procedure.
To charge or test the battery after a job, look at our jump starters and battery care and diagnostic equipment, including the BST100 12V battery tester with cranking and charging checks. Our electrical parts section has alternators and other parts the drive belt turns.
Buying Belts and Hoses from Easy Life Markets
Every product page lists the part numbers, contents and fitment information the supplier gives us, plus the photos. Read the listing, compare it with your old part and ask us if anything is unclear. The current price and availability are shown on each product page. For delivery details see our shipping policy, and for returns see the return and refund policy. More answers are on our FAQ page.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should belts and hoses be replaced?
Follow the interval in your service schedule. Timing belts have a fixed age and distance limit. Drive belts and hoses are usually replaced on condition, when they show cracks, leaks or swelling.
Does my engine have a timing belt or a timing chain?
Check your owner's manual or search by engine code. The two are not interchangeable. Chain parts are in our timing chains and belts category.
Should I replace the water pump with the timing belt?
If your water pump is driven by the timing belt, many mechanics change it at the same time because the labour overlaps. Our KP15688XS kit includes one.
What causes a belt to squeal?
Usually slipping. A worn or glazed belt, a weak tensioner, a misaligned pulley or oil and coolant on the belt can all cause it.
Can I fit belts and hoses myself?
Drive belts and most hoses are within reach of a careful home mechanic with basic tools. Timing belts need locking tools and the correct procedure for your engine.
How do I know a part will fit my car?
Match the engine code and the part or kit reference numbers on the product page. If you are unsure, send us your vehicle details through the contact page before you buy.
Can I return a part that does not fit?
Returns follow our return and refund policy. Please check fitment before fitting, because used parts are harder to return.