Car Lighting at Easy Life Markets
Car lighting covers every lamp on a vehicle and the parts that power them: headlights, tail and brake lights, indicators, fog lamps, auxiliary light bars, bulbs, relays, switches and wiring. Easy Life Markets sells car lighting parts as part of our auto parts range, with a focus right now on the wiring and electrical parts that make lights work properly.
Our current range includes a LED light bar wiring harness kit with a 40A relay, 30A fuse and switch, a fog lamp wiring harness with relay, fuse and switch, and an H7 LED load resistor for LED conversions. We will add more lamps and bulbs over time. This guide explains the main types of vehicle lights, the specifications to match and how to fit extra lighting safely. The current price and availability are shown on each product page.
What Car Lighting Includes
Vehicle lights do two jobs. Some help you see: headlights, fog lamps and auxiliary driving lights. Others help other road users see you and understand what you are doing: tail lights, brake lights, indicators, reversing lights and side markers. Inside the car there are also cabin lights, dashboard lights and boot or cargo lights.
Every one of those lights needs a power feed, a switch or control unit, a ground, and protection in the form of a fuse. Many need a relay as well. When a light fails, the bulb is only one possible cause. Corroded connectors, a blown fuse, a failed relay or a broken ground wire are just as common. The automotive lighting article on Wikipedia gives a full overview of lamp types and their history.
Main Types of Car Lighting
Headlights
Headlights provide dipped (low) and main (high) beams. There are three main light sources. Halogen bulbs are the traditional type: cheap, warm-coloured and easy to replace. HID or xenon lamps use an arc in a gas-filled capsule and need a ballast. LED headlights use light-emitting diodes and usually have a driver and a heat sink or fan. Headlight units are usually specific to a vehicle model and side, and the beam pattern must be correctly aimed.
Tail, brake and reversing lights
Rear lamp clusters normally combine tail lights, brake lights, indicators and reversing lights in one housing. Many use dual-filament bulbs, where one filament is the dim tail light and the other is the bright brake light. Newer vehicles often use LED clusters that are replaced as a unit.
Indicators and hazard lights
Indicators flash to show which way you are turning. They are controlled by a switch on the steering column and a flasher relay or a body control module. Our turn signals category covers this area, including a Chevrolet GMC turn signal switch for 1967 to 1972 C and K series pickups.
Fog lamps
Front fog lamps sit low on the bumper and throw a wide, flat beam under fog and low cloud. Rear fog lamps are bright red lamps that help following traffic see you in poor visibility. If your car never had them, adding a pair needs a relay circuit. See our fog lamp category for more, including the fog lamp wiring harness.
Auxiliary lights and light bars
LED light bars, spotlights and work lights are popular on pickups, 4x4s and work vehicles. They draw a lot of current, so they should always run through a relay and a fuse rather than straight through a dashboard switch. That is exactly what the 280W light bar wiring harness kit is for. Rules on where and when auxiliary lights can be used on public roads differ from place to place, so check your local road rules before fitting.
Interior lights
Dome lights, map lights, footwell lights and dashboard illumination make the cabin easier to use at night. These are low-current circuits and are often the easiest place to try an LED upgrade.
Car Lighting Light Sources Compared
| Light source | How it works | Extra parts needed | Typical use | Points to watch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Halogen | Heated filament in halogen gas | None beyond the bulb | Headlights, fog lamps, older clusters | Higher current draw, shorter life than LED |
| HID or xenon | Electric arc in a gas capsule | Ballast and igniter | Headlights on some vehicles | Warm-up time, high voltage at the ballast |
| LED | Semiconductor diodes | Driver, heat sink, sometimes a load resistor | Headlights, clusters, light bars, interior | Heat management, bulb-out warnings, beam pattern |
| Incandescent (non-halogen) | Heated filament in a glass bulb | None | Indicators, tail, interior on older cars | Lower efficiency |
Specifications to Match
Getting car lighting parts right comes down to a few specifications. Check each one before you buy.
- Bulb type code. Bulbs are identified by codes such as H1, H4, H7, H8, H11, 9005 (HB3) and 9006 (HB4). The code defines the base, the filament position and the connector. A bulb with the wrong code will not fit or will give a poor beam. The code is usually printed on the old bulb's base and listed in the owner's manual.
- Voltage. Most cars run 12V systems. Many trucks and heavy vehicles use 24V. Lighting parts must suit your system voltage.
- Wattage and current. More watts means more current. Wiring, switches, relays and fuses must be rated for the total load. Our light bar harness is rated by the supplier for a maximum load of 280W at 12V.
- Relay and fuse rating. The relay must handle the current comfortably, and the fuse must protect the wire. The light bar kit uses a 40A relay and a 30A fuse.
- Connector type. Plugs differ between bulbs and lamps. Check the photos and the connector names on the listing.
- Cable length. Measure the route from the battery to the lights and to the switch before buying a harness. The light bar kit's main line is about 3 m (10 ft).
- Resistance and power for load resistors. A load resistor is rated in ohms and watts. The H7 resistor we sell is 50W at 6 ohms.
Upgrading to LED: What to Know
Swapping halogen bulbs for LEDs is one of the most common car lighting upgrades. LEDs draw much less current. That is good for the battery and the wiring, but it can confuse the car.
Many vehicles monitor their bulbs by measuring current. When an LED draws much less than the halogen bulb it replaced, the car may decide the bulb has failed. You may see a bulb-out warning on the dashboard, a flicker, or indicators that flash too fast. A load resistor wired in parallel with the LED draws the missing current so the circuit looks normal again. Our H7 LED load resistor is a plug-in decoding harness made for this job, available as one piece or a pair.
Load resistors turn that extra current into heat, and they can get very hot. Mount them on a metal surface away from plastic parts, wiring and anything that could melt, and follow the instructions on the product page.
LED bulbs also need to put light where the original filament did. A bulb that does not match the filament position can give a scattered beam and dazzle other drivers. Check that any upgrade gives a correct beam pattern and is allowed by local road rules.
Why Relays Matter
A relay is an electrically controlled switch. A small current through its coil closes a heavy-duty contact that carries the main current. In a lighting circuit, the dashboard switch only carries the small signal current to the relay. The relay then feeds the lamps from the battery through a fuse. The switch stays cool, the lamps get full voltage, and the fuse protects the wire if anything shorts. The relay article on Wikipedia explains how they work.
Building that circuit from loose wire, terminals and a relay base takes time and leaves room for mistakes. A pre-made harness, like the fog lamp wiring harness or the light bar kit, already has the relay, fuse holder, switch and lamp plugs in the right places. For more looms and connectors, see our wiring harnesses category.
How to Choose a Lighting Harness
If you are adding car lighting, the harness matters as much as the lamps. Work through these points before you order.
- Add up the load. Find the wattage of each lamp you plan to run and add them together. Divide by the system voltage to get the current. Two 60W lamps on a 12V system draw roughly 10 amps.
- Leave headroom. Choose a harness whose rating is comfortably above your total load. Running a harness at its limit makes the wires and relay run warm.
- Count the lamp plugs. Most kits have two lamp connectors. If you are running one light bar or two lamps, check the plug count and type.
- Plan the switch position. Decide where the switch will go on the dashboard and whether the harness cable will reach it.
- Measure the run. Measure from the battery to the lamps and into the cabin, allowing for routing around the engine bay.
- Think about the feed. Some owners want auxiliary lamps to work only with the main beam or only with the ignition on. That may need an extra trigger wire, and an auto electrician can advise.
Caring for Lights and Lenses
Lights work best when the lenses are clean and the housings are sealed. A few simple habits keep them in good shape.
- Clean lenses when you wash the car. Road film and dirt cut light output more than most drivers realise.
- Check for condensation inside lamps. A small amount after washing can be normal, but standing water points to a failed seal or a cracked housing.
- Look at plastic headlight lenses for yellowing or haze. Restoring or replacing a cloudy lens can make a clear difference at night.
- Walk round the car with the lights on every few weeks, including brake lights and indicators. Ask someone to press the brake pedal while you look.
- Replace halogen headlight bulbs in pairs. When one fails, the other is often close behind, and a matched pair gives an even beam.
- Avoid touching the glass of a halogen bulb with bare fingers. Skin oils can create hot spots and shorten bulb life.
Fitting Car Lighting Safely
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal before working on lighting circuits.
- Fit the fuse as close to the battery as the instructions allow, so the whole wire is protected.
- Route wires away from hot exhaust parts, moving parts and sharp edges. Use grommets where wires pass through metal.
- Make a good ground connection on clean, bare metal. Poor grounds cause dim or flickering lights.
- Seal connections that are exposed to water and road spray.
- Never fit a bigger fuse than the wire and harness are rated for.
- Aim headlights and auxiliary lights so they do not dazzle oncoming traffic.
- If you are not comfortable with vehicle electrics, have an auto electrician do the job. Some modern vehicles have complex body control modules where a wrong connection can cause faults.
Finding Lighting Faults
Before you replace a lamp, work through the simple checks.
- Check the bulb. Look for a broken filament or a dark, burnt glass. Swap it with a known good one if you can.
- Check the fuse. The owner's manual shows which fuse protects which light.
- Check the connector. Green or white corrosion on terminals often causes intermittent lights.
- Check the ground. A loose or rusty ground gives dim lights, or lights that glow when another lamp is on.
- Check the relay and switch. A clicking relay with no light points to the feed or the lamp. No click points to the switch or the relay itself.
- Check the battery and charging. Dim lights at idle can mean a weak battery or a charging fault. Our BST100 car battery tester checks the battery, cranking and charging system.
Common Car Lighting Mistakes
- Wiring a high-power lamp straight through a dashboard switch. Use a relay.
- Choosing the wrong bulb code. Check the old bulb and the owner's manual.
- Mounting a load resistor against plastic. It gets hot enough to cause damage.
- Using a fuse that is too big. The fuse protects the wire. Oversizing it removes that protection.
- Ignoring local rules. Colours, positions and auxiliary light use are regulated in many places.
Related Categories
Lighting sits close to the rest of the electrical system. Our electrical section covers ignition, charging and starting parts, and batteries covers jump starters and battery care. For in-car gadgets, see car electronics, including a BMW glove box USB socket harness, and the wider automotive accessories range. For workshop tools, browse tools and equipment.
Who Our Car Lighting Parts Suit
Our car lighting parts suit owners fitting extra lamps to a pickup, 4x4 or work vehicle, drivers who have switched to LED bulbs and now see warning messages, restorers bringing old lights back to life, and mechanics who want a ready-made relay harness instead of building one.
Frequently Asked Questions
What car lighting parts do you sell?
The category covers lamps, bulbs, relays, switches and wiring. Our current range is a light bar wiring kit, a fog lamp wiring harness and an H7 LED load resistor, and we will add more.
Why do my LED bulbs cause a warning on the dashboard?
LEDs draw less current than halogen bulbs, so some cars think the bulb has failed. A correctly rated load resistor wired in parallel usually solves it.
Do I need a relay for a light bar?
Yes. A light bar draws more current than a dashboard switch should carry. A relay harness lets the switch control the lights while the relay carries the load through a fuse.
How do I know which bulb my car uses?
Look at the code on the base of the old bulb, or check the owner's manual. Common codes include H7, H11, 9005 and 9006.
Will the light bar harness fit any vehicle?
It is listed as universal fitment for 12V DC systems, with a maximum load of 280W. Check your system voltage, the total wattage of your lights and the cable length you need.
Are aftermarket lights legal?
That depends on where you drive. Rules on colour, brightness, position and use differ between places. Check your local road rules before fitting.
Can I return a lighting part?
See our return and refund policy for the conditions. Shipping details are on the shipping policy page, and more answers are on our FAQ page.
Shop Car Lighting at Easy Life Markets
Good car lighting helps you see and be seen. Match the bulb code, voltage and load, use a relay and fuse for high-power lamps, and fit everything with clean connections and a solid ground. Browse our current car lighting parts above. If you need help choosing, send your vehicle details and what you want to fit through our contact page.