Driveshafts and Prop Shaft Assemblies
Easy Life Markets sells driveshafts for rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles, plus the tools used to service them. Our range includes complete front and rear prop shaft assemblies listed by vehicle, length and reference number, and a heavy duty yoke puller for truck drivelines. Each listing shows the measurements and part numbers we have, so you can match it to the shaft on your vehicle.
If you are not sure a driveshaft is your problem, start with the symptoms. A clunk when you pull away or change from drive to reverse often points to a worn universal joint or slip yoke. A vibration that rises with road speed can come from a bent tube, a lost balance weight or a dry joint. A squeak that ticks with wheel rotation is a classic sign of a U-joint running out of grease. A whine or rumble from the middle of an all-wheel drive car may be a centre support bearing. Check those parts first, then read the product pages below to find a replacement.
What a Driveshaft Does
A driveshaft, also called a prop shaft or propeller shaft, carries turning force from one part of the drivetrain to another when they sit a distance apart. On a rear-wheel drive car it links the gearbox to the rear differential. On a four-wheel drive vehicle there is often a second shaft from the transfer case to the front axle. On many all-wheel drive crossovers, a power take-off unit at the front sends drive back to the rear axle through a long, multi-piece shaft. The drive shaft article gives a good technical background if you want to read more.
The shaft has a hard life. It spins many times faster than the wheels, it must handle full engine torque, and it has to change length and angle as the suspension moves. That is why driveshafts use joints at the ends and often a slip section in the middle or at the gearbox end.
Parts of a Driveshaft
Tube
The main body is a steel or alloy tube. Its diameter and wall thickness set how stiff and strong it is. A dented or bent tube cannot be straightened reliably and should be replaced.
Universal joints (U-joints)
A U-joint is a cross with four needle-bearing caps. It lets the shaft turn through an angle. U-joints wear, especially when grease runs out or water gets in. A worn joint gives clunks and vibration.
Constant velocity joints
Some prop shafts use CV joints instead of U-joints, especially at the front of four-wheel drive vehicles. They run smoothly at bigger angles. A split boot lets dirt in and the joint wears quickly after that.
Slip yoke or slip joint
This splined section lets the shaft change length as the axle moves. Worn splines can cause a clunk on take-off.
Centre support bearing
Long shafts are split into two or more pieces with a bearing in a rubber mount in the middle. The rubber can crack and the bearing can wear, which causes vibration and noise.
Flanges and yokes
The ends bolt to the gearbox, transfer case or differential with a flange, or slide onto an output shaft with a yoke. Bolt pattern and spline count must match.
Types of Driveshafts We Sell
Rear driveshafts for rear-wheel drive cars
On a rear-wheel drive car, the rear shaft takes power from the transmission output to the rear differential. The 2015-2019 Challenger rear driveshaft is a complete assembly listed for the Dodge Challenger with the 3.6L V6. It measures 71.7 to 73.2 inches and carries the reference numbers shown on the product page.
Rear driveshafts for all-wheel drive crossovers
Crossovers often use a long rear shaft with a centre bearing. The Ford Edge rear driveshaft is listed for the 2007-2008 Ford Edge and matching Lincoln MKX. It measures 80.2 to 82.1 inches long with a 2.5-inch shaft diameter.
Front driveshafts for four-wheel drive vehicles
The front shaft runs from the transfer case to the front differential. It works at sharper angles than most rear shafts. The 52853431AA front driveshaft is listed for 2007-2010 Jeep Commander and Grand Cherokee four-wheel drive models. It is 33.62 inches long with a 2.0-inch steel tube.
Driveline service tools
Heavy trucks need serious tools. The heavy duty yoke puller for Class 6-8 trucks is a screw-type tool for removing U-joint bearing caps from driveline yokes. It is listed for yokes from 1-7/8 in to 2-3/16 in and comes with three flange bolt sizes.
Our current range is small and focused. We are adding more driveshafts and related parts over time, so check back if your vehicle is not listed yet.
Driveshafts Comparison Table
This table compares the main types of driveshafts and the related tool we sell, with what to check before ordering.
| Type | Where it sits | Typical joints | Key checks | Example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rear shaft, rear-wheel drive | Gearbox to rear differential | U-joints, slip yoke | Length, yoke splines, flange pattern, engine and gearbox | Challenger V6 rear shaft |
| Rear shaft, all-wheel drive | Front power take-off unit to rear drive unit | U-joints or CV joints, centre bearing | Number of pieces, overall length, centre bearing position | Edge and MKX rear shaft |
| Front shaft, four-wheel drive | Transfer case to front differential | U-joints or CV joints | Length, tube diameter, end fittings, drive system | Jeep front shaft |
| Yoke puller (tool) | Used on the yoke at either end | Not applicable | Yoke size range, driveline series, bolt sizes | Heavy duty yoke puller |
How to Choose a Replacement Driveshaft
Most driveshafts are specific to a vehicle, drive type and sometimes engine and gearbox. Two cars of the same model and year can use different shafts. Follow these steps.
- Know your drive system. Rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive versions of one model often use different driveshafts.
- Find the reference number. Many shafts have a part number on a label or stamped on the tube. Compare it with the numbers listed on our product pages.
- Measure the length. Measure the old shaft from the centre of one joint to the centre of the other, or end to end as our listing describes. Our pages give a length range because slip sections move.
- Check the ends. Count yoke splines, look at the flange bolt pattern and note whether there is a centre bearing.
- Check engine and gearbox. A shaft for a V6 may not fit a V8 version, because the gearbox length can change.
- Compare our photos. Look at the shape of the ends, the number of pieces and the joint type.
- Ask us. Send your vehicle details and the old part number through our contact page if you are not sure.
Specifications to Check on Driveshafts
- Overall length: the most important single number after the part number. Too long and it will bottom out, too short and the slip section can pull apart.
- Tube diameter: listed on many of our pages. It affects stiffness and clearance.
- Number of pieces: one-piece, two-piece or three-piece, with centre bearings between them.
- Joint type: U-joint, CV joint or a mix.
- End fittings: slip yoke spline count, flange bolt pattern and bolt size.
- Vehicle fitment: make, model, year range, engine, gearbox and drive type.
We only list figures that the supplier gives. If a figure you need is not on the product page, ask us before ordering.
Fitting Driveshafts Safely
Replacing a complete prop shaft assembly is often simpler than rebuilding the old one, but it still needs care. A shaft that comes loose at speed can do serious damage. If you are not confident, have a professional fit it.
- Lift the vehicle safely on stands or a ramp, never on a jack alone. Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
- Mark the position of the old shaft on the flanges before removal. Some shafts are balanced in a set position.
- Support the shaft as you remove the last bolts. Long shafts are heavy and can drop suddenly.
- Plug the gearbox or transfer case output if fluid can escape when the slip yoke is removed.
- Use new bolts or straps where the vehicle maker says so, and tighten to the figure in your workshop manual.
- Check the joint phasing. On a two-joint shaft, the yokes at each end are usually aligned. Wrong phasing causes vibration.
- Test drive gently at first and listen for clunks or vibration.
Caring for Driveshafts
A little attention keeps driveshafts running smoothly for a long time.
- Grease U-joints that have grease fittings at the interval your handbook gives. Many modern joints are sealed for life and have no fitting.
- Look at CV boots and joint seals at each service. A split boot should be dealt with quickly.
- Check the centre bearing mount for cracks or sagging rubber.
- Look for missing balance weights or fresh dents after off-road driving or hitting debris.
- Pay attention to new vibrations. They usually get worse, not better.
- On four-wheel drive vehicles, use the drive modes as the handbook describes. Driving with four-wheel drive locked on dry tarmac puts strain on the front shaft.
Common Driveshaft Problems and Their Causes
Most faults on driveshafts come down to a handful of causes. Knowing them helps you describe the problem to a mechanic and decide what to buy.
Dry or worn U-joints
When the grease inside the bearing caps breaks down or washes out, the needle rollers start to wear the cross. You hear a chirp or squeak at low speed, then a clunk as play develops. Left alone, the joint can seize or break apart.
Imbalance
Driveshafts are balanced at the factory with small weights welded to the tube. If one falls off, or the tube is dented by a rock or a jack, the shaft vibrates. The vibration is usually felt through the floor or seat and gets stronger as speed rises.
Worn slip splines
The splines on the slip yoke wear when they run dry or when the vehicle carries heavy loads. Worn splines give a clunk when you pull away or lift off the throttle.
Failed centre support bearing
On two-piece shafts the rubber around the centre bearing ages and cracks. The shaft then moves too much, and you feel a shudder on take-off or hear a rumble at cruising speed.
Wrong angles after a lift or lowering
Raising or lowering a vehicle changes the angle the driveshafts run at. If the angles at each end no longer match, the shaft speeds up and slows down slightly on every turn. That gives a vibration that no new part will fix until the angles are corrected.
Repair or Replace?
A worn joint on an otherwise healthy shaft can be replaced by a workshop with a press. That is a good option when only one joint is worn and the tube is straight. A complete assembly makes more sense when the tube is damaged, several parts are worn, the slip splines are loose, or you want the vehicle back on the road quickly. It also saves the time of pressing joints in and out.
For heavy trucks, U-joint replacement is routine, which is why the right tools matter. A yoke puller removes stubborn bearing caps without hammering, which protects the yoke ears from damage. Our tools range also includes items such as the crankshaft pulley holding tool set for other jobs under the vehicle.
Driveshafts and the Rest of the Drivetrain
Vibration and clunks can come from several places, so check the whole driveline. Worn engine or gearbox mounts let the gearbox move, which changes shaft angles. A worn differential bearing makes a noise that can be mistaken for a shaft problem. On front-wheel drive cars, the shafts to the front wheels are CV axles, which are a different part from the prop shafts on this page.
Browse these related ranges in our store:
- Transmission and drivetrain parts, the parent section for this category.
- CV joints and axles, such as the 2003-2022 4Runner CV axle pair and the Hummer H3 CV axle pair.
- Differentials, including the carrier and pinion bearing puller for Dana and Ford 10.25 axles.
- Clutches, for manual gearbox vehicles.
- Transmissions and engine mounts.
- Our full auto parts store and our auto repair tools.
Who Our Driveshafts Suit
These parts suit owners who want to replace a worn shaft with a complete assembly, small workshops that prefer a ready-to-fit unit to a rebuild, and fleet mechanics who need the right tools for heavy truck drivelines. A complete shaft saves the time of pressing out old joints, and you get new joints at both ends at the same time.
Buying Driveshafts from Easy Life Markets
Read each product page in full. It shows the vehicle fitment, length, tube size and reference numbers we have. The current price and availability are shown on each product page. Driveshafts are long, heavy items, so check our shipping policy for delivery information. If something is not right when it arrives, see our return and refund policy. General questions are answered on our FAQ page.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my driveshaft is bad?
Common signs are a clunk on take-off or when changing direction, vibration that grows with speed, a squeak that follows wheel rotation, and visible play in the joints. Have the shaft checked on a lift to be sure.
Is a driveshaft the same as a CV axle?
No. A driveshaft usually runs along the length of the vehicle to an axle. CV axles are the shorter shafts that run out to each wheel, mostly on front-wheel drive and independent suspension.
Should I replace the U-joint or the whole shaft?
A single worn joint can be replaced if the tube is straight and the other parts are good. If the tube is bent, several joints are worn or the slip splines are loose, a complete assembly is often the better option.
How do I measure driveshafts for a replacement?
Measure the old shaft in the way the product page describes, usually end to end or joint centre to joint centre, with the slip section in its normal position. Compare with the length range listed.
Can I drive with a bad driveshaft?
It is not safe to keep driving with a badly worn shaft. A failed joint can let the shaft drop and strike the road or the underside of the vehicle. Have it checked as soon as you notice symptoms.
Do your driveshafts come with new joints?
Our complete assemblies are supplied as full shafts with their joints fitted. Check each product page for what is included.
Will this driveshaft fit my vehicle?
Compare the fitment, length and reference numbers on the product page with your vehicle and old shaft. If you are unsure, contact us with your vehicle details before ordering.