Bushings

Suspension Bushings in Rubber and Polyurethane

Suspension bushings are the flexible mounts that sit between the suspension arms and the body, and Easy Life Markets sells replacement and upgrade sets in polyurethane and other firm materials, as well as arms with new bushings already installed. If your car clunks over bumps, shifts under braking or feels loose in corners, tired bushings are a common cause and one of the cheapest things to put right.

Our current range is small and leans toward modified and upgrade parts: a polyurethane front arm bushing set in brackets for the BMW E46 and Z4, a retainer bushing for the Nissan S14 and S15, a rear lower arm bushing set with metal sleeves, a front wishbone rear bushing with red hex-bore inserts and a Mustang rear arm kit with bushings fitted. More will be added over time. The current price and availability are shown on each product page.

What Bushings Do

A bushing is a sleeve of rubber or polyurethane pressed between a metal outer shell and a metal inner tube. The arm bolts through the inner tube, and the outer shell sits in the arm or in a bracket on the body. The rubber between them lets the arm pivot while soaking up vibration and noise.

That gives the bushing two jobs at once. It must let the suspension move freely up and down, and it must stop the arm moving in any other direction. Too soft, and the wheel shifts under braking and cornering. Too hard, and every small bump reaches the cabin. Car makers choose a balance for each vehicle. When you replace suspension bushings, you can match that balance or change it.

Bushings are found all over the chassis. Most cars have them at the inner end of every arm, at the sway bar, at the top of struts and shocks, on subframe mounts and in rear axle links. The ones that wear most often are the large front arm bushings, because they handle braking forces every time you stop.

Rubber vs Polyurethane

The main choice when buying suspension bushings is the material. Each has strengths.

For most daily drivers, rubber gives the comfort the car was designed for. Polyurethane suits owners who want sharper response, tighter feel under braking and longer life in harsh conditions. Rigid parts suit dedicated performance builds where comfort matters less.

Solid, Voided and Fluid-Filled Designs

Not all rubber bushings are the same inside. A solid bushing has rubber all the way round and resists movement equally in every direction. A voided bushing has gaps moulded into the rubber, so it is soft in one direction and firm in another. Car makers use voids to let the arm move back slightly over bumps for comfort while staying firm under cornering.

Some premium cars use fluid-filled bushings. They contain chambers of liquid that damp vibration further. When they fail, they often leak, and you may see a wet or oily residue around the part. Replacement fluid-filled parts must match the original design closely.

A polyurethane replacement for a voided or fluid-filled part will feel noticeably different. That can be what you want, but it is worth knowing before you order.

Suspension Bushings in Our Current Range

Here is what we sell today. Please read each product page for the full details the supplier gives.

BMW E46 polyurethane front bushing set

The BMW E46 front bushing set is a pair of polyurethane bushings already mounted in silver brackets. The supplier lists it for the E46 and E85, naming the 325i, 330i and Z4 from 1999 to 2006. The rear mounts of the front arms are a well-known wear point on these cars, and the firmer material is a common upgrade.

Nissan S14 and S15 retainer bushing

The S14 S15 suspension retainer bushing comes in black or gold. The supplier's fitment chart names the 1995-1998 Nissan 240SX with the 2.4L engine. It is a rigid refit part for owners rebuilding or modifying the underside of these cars.

Rear lower arm bushing set with metal sleeves

The rear lower arm bushing set includes red flanged bushing halves with plated inner sleeves. The supplier does not give a vehicle list, so you will need to match it to your arms by measurement. We say that plainly on the product page.

Front wishbone rear bushing

The front wishbone rear bushing is black with a red hex-bore centre insert. The supplier's listing is short and gives no vehicle list or dimensions. It suits experienced builders who can measure their existing parts and confirm the fit.

Arms with bushings fitted

Sometimes replacing the whole arm is easier than pressing old bushings out. The 1979-2004 Mustang rear arm kit includes two upper and two lower tubular arms with bushings already installed. Many of the arm pairs in our arm collection also come with new rubber bushings fitted, such as the Kia Forte lower pair and the Altima front lower pair.

Where Bushings Are Found on a Car

A typical car has dozens of bushings. Knowing the main locations helps you trace a noise to its source and order the right part.

Front arm bushings

Each front lower arm usually has two: one at the front pivot and one at the rear. The rear one is often larger and takes most of the braking load. On many cars, including the BMW E46, it sits in a separate bracket that bolts to the body. These are the most commonly replaced suspension bushings on any car.

Sway bar bushings

The sway bar, or anti-roll bar, is clamped to the body with two bushings. When they wear, you hear a knock or creak over uneven surfaces and at low speed. They are small and cheap, but the noise can be surprisingly loud.

Subframe mounts

Many cars bolt the front or rear subframe to the body through large rubber mounts. Worn mounts can cause clunks on acceleration and braking, and a vague feel through the whole car.

Rear axle and link bushings

Solid-axle cars like older Mustangs locate the rear axle with arms that pivot on bushings at each end. Independent rear suspensions use several links per side, each with its own bushing. Worn rear parts cause rear-end steer, where the car feels like it moves from behind in corners.

Top mounts

Struts sit in a rubber top mount at the body. It carries the weight of the car and lets the strut rotate as you steer. A worn top mount knocks over bumps and can make the steering feel notchy.

Bushings for Modified and Performance Cars

A large part of our current range is aimed at modified cars. On a lowered car or one with stiffer springs, soft factory rubber can let the arms move more than the owner wants. Firmer parts hold the geometry more tightly, so the alignment settings stay where they were set even under hard braking or cornering.

There is a trade-off. Firmer parts pass more vibration into the body, and on some cars they can make the cabin noisier. They also put more load on the brackets and mounting points, so check those for cracks during inspections. Many owners choose polyurethane for the front arms, where the gain in feel is greatest, and keep rubber elsewhere for comfort.

If you are building a car for occasional track days, talk to a specialist about which locations to upgrade. Not every bushing benefits from being stiffer.

Signs of Worn Bushings

Bushings wear gradually, so the change is easy to miss. Look and listen for:

• Clunks or thuds over bumps, potholes and speed humps.
• Movement under braking, felt as a shimmy or a pull to one side.
• Vague steering and a car that wanders on straight roads.
• Uneven tyre wear, because the wheel angles change under load.
• Squeaks or creaks, especially from dry polyurethane or perished rubber.
• Visible damage: cracks, splits, rubber bulging out of the shell, or an inner sleeve that sits off centre.
• Oil-soaked rubber, which softens and fails quickly.

A mechanic checks bushings with the car raised, using a pry bar to look for movement between the arm and its mount. A small amount of flex in rubber is normal. Large movement, tears or a sleeve that knocks against its shell means replacement is due.

How to Choose Suspension Bushings

Bushings must match their housing exactly. Even a millimetre of difference in outer size or bolt diameter matters. Work through this list:

1. Identify the location. Front or rear, which arm, inner or outer, forward or rearward position.
2. Match the vehicle. Make, model, year and chassis code. Many enthusiasts' parts are listed by chassis code, such as E46 or S14.
3. Measure if no fitment is given. Record the outer diameter, inner bore, overall length and flange size of your current part.
4. Choose the material. Rubber for comfort, polyurethane for response, rigid parts for track use.
5. Check what is included. Some sets come with brackets, sleeves or grease. Some are bushings only.
6. Consider the whole arm. If the arm is rusty or the ball joint is also worn, a complete arm may cost less in labour.

Need a second opinion? Send your vehicle details and measurements through our contact page.

Fitting Suspension Bushings

Bushings hold the suspension in place, so correct fitting is a safety matter. We recommend professional fitting, especially for front arm parts. If you are experienced and fit them yourself:

• Support the vehicle on axle stands on firm, level ground.
• Use a proper press or bushing tool. Burning out old rubber with a flame is dangerous and can damage the arm.
• Clean the housing fully before fitting the new part.
• Use the grease supplied with polyurethane parts on the sleeves and contact faces. Do not use petroleum grease on rubber.
• Tighten pivot bolts with the suspension at normal ride height, so the bushing is not twisted at rest.
• Use the vehicle maker's tightening values. We do not publish torque figures here.
• Have a wheel alignment done after replacing any arm bushing.

General workshop tools are in our tools and equipment section.

Care and Maintenance

• Inspect bushings whenever the car is on a lift or the wheels are off.
• Fix oil leaks from the engine, gearbox or steering. Oil destroys rubber bushings.
• Re-grease polyurethane parts if they start to squeak, following the supplier's instructions.
• Rinse road salt and mud from the underside where you can.
• Replace both sides at the same time to keep handling even.

Why Bushings Matter for Other Parts

A worn bushing does not only cause noise. It lets the arm move, and that changes the wheel angles every time you brake or turn. The tyres wear unevenly. The ball joint and steering links take shock loads they were not designed for. Shocks and struts work harder to control a wheel that is no longer held steady.

That is why replacing worn suspension bushings early saves money. A set of bushings costs far less than a set of tyres, and fresh mounts protect the rest of the front end.

Who These Parts Suit

• BMW E46 and Z4 owners who want firmer front response or are tired of replacing soft rubber.
• Nissan 240SX, S14 and S15 builders working on drift or street projects.
• Project car owners who can measure their parts and want upgrade bushings.
• Classic Mustang owners who want new rear arms with bushings already fitted.
• Daily drivers who would rather replace a whole arm with fresh rubber than press out old parts.

Our range of suspension bushings will grow as we add more vehicles.

Related Parts to Consider

Bushing work often goes with other front-end jobs. While you are there, look at:

• Front and rear arms, if the arm itself is bent or rusted.
• Arms and kits with ball joints, for knocks from the outer end.
• Struts and shock absorbers, which share the same mounting points.
• Tie rod ends and steering kits, for loose steering.

See our full suspension and steering range or every part in our auto parts catalogue. If the car also has engine vibration, our engine mounts are another type of rubber mount worth checking.

Buying Tips from Easy Life Markets

• Measure your old part before ordering, especially for parts with no vehicle list.
• Photograph the old bushing in place so you can compare orientation and flange position.
• Decide on comfort or response before choosing the material.
• Check whether grease, sleeves or brackets come in the box.
• Book an alignment for after the work.

Our return and refund policy explains what to do if a part does not suit your car. See the shipping policy for shipping information and our FAQ page for general store questions.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do suspension bushings last?

It varies with roads, climate and oil leaks. Rubber hardens and cracks with age and heat. Polyurethane resists wear well but may need re-greasing.

Are polyurethane bushings better than rubber?

They are firmer and last well, which improves response. They also pass more noise and vibration. Rubber is the better choice if comfort is your priority.

Can I drive with worn bushings?

You can for a short time, but handling and braking suffer and other parts wear faster. Badly worn front bushings should be replaced soon.

Do I need an alignment after replacing bushings?

Yes. New bushings hold the arm in a slightly different position, so an alignment keeps the tyres wearing evenly.

How do I know a bushing will fit if there is no vehicle list?

Measure your existing part: outer diameter, inner bore, length and flange. Compare with the product photos and ask us before ordering if you are unsure.

Should I replace bushings or the whole arm?

If the arm is straight and rust-free, bushings alone are cheaper. If the ball joint is worn or the arm is corroded, a complete arm with new bushings is usually simpler.

Why do polyurethane bushings squeak?

Usually because the grease has dried or was not applied at fitting. Cleaning and re-greasing the contact faces normally stops it.