Starters

Starter Motors at Easy Life Markets

Easy Life Markets sells starter motors for petrol cars, listed by reference number, voltage, power rating and pinion tooth count. The starter is the electric motor that turns the engine over when you turn the key or press the start button. When it fails, the car will not start, however good the battery is.

To choose the right starter, match the number on your old unit, then check the pinion teeth, the power rating, the mounting flange and the electrical terminals. Our current range is small and focused: five units covering Audi, Volkswagen, Chevrolet, Ford Fiesta and Dodge and Chrysler 5.7L V8 applications. It is part of our electrical parts section within the main auto parts store, and we add new units as our range grows.

How a Starter Motor Works

A starter is a compact, powerful 12V electric motor bolted to the engine or gearbox bell housing. On top of it sits a solenoid. When you turn the key, the solenoid does two things at once. It pushes a small gear, the pinion, forward so it meshes with the ring gear on the engine's flywheel or flexplate. It also closes a heavy switch that sends battery current to the motor. The motor spins the engine until it fires, then the pinion pulls back out of mesh.

All of this takes a second or two, but it draws more current than anything else in the car. That is why a weak battery, a corroded cable or a poor earth so often looks like a starter fault. The starter article on Wikipedia gives the history and the different designs if you want more detail.

Types of Starter Motors

Direct drive starters

In a direct drive starter, the motor shaft drives the pinion directly. This is the older and simpler design. These units tend to be larger and heavier for the same output.

Gear reduction starters

A gear reduction starter uses a small set of gears between a fast-spinning motor and the pinion. This gives more turning force from a smaller, lighter motor. Many modern cars use this design, and it is common on larger engines.

Permanent magnet starters

Some compact units use permanent magnets instead of field windings. They save weight and space and are widely used on small and mid-size petrol engines.

You do not normally need to choose a type. The replacement should match the design your engine was built with, which is why the reference number matters so much.

Signs Your Starter Is Failing

• A single click and no crank when you turn the key, with the dash lights staying bright. This often points to the solenoid or the motor.
• Rapid clicking, which more often means a flat battery or poor connection than a starter fault.
• Slow, laboured cranking with a healthy battery, which can mean worn brushes or bearings.
• Grinding or whirring during starting, which can point to a worn pinion or a pinion that is not engaging the ring gear properly.
• Starter keeps running after the engine fires, a sign of a sticking solenoid. Switch off and get it checked.
• Intermittent starting, working one day and not the next, often from a worn solenoid contact.
• Smoke or a burning smell from under the car after repeated attempts. Stop trying and let it cool.

Rule Out the Battery and Cables First

Before you order a starter, make sure the problem is not somewhere else. Most no-crank complaints are battery or connection faults, and they are cheaper to fix.

1. Check the battery voltage. A charged battery at rest reads around 12.6 volts.
2. Check the voltage while someone tries to start the car. If it falls very low, the battery may be weak.
3. Clean and tighten both battery terminals and check the clamps for cracks.
4. Check the heavy cable to the starter and the engine earth strap.
5. Check the small trigger wire on the solenoid and any starter relay or fuse.
6. On automatic cars, make sure the selector is fully in Park or Neutral. On manual cars, check the clutch switch if one is fitted.

A battery tester takes the guesswork out of this. The BST100 battery tester checks the battery, the cranking voltage and the charging system on 12V vehicles. If your battery is simply flat, a jump starter such as the 1000A jump starter will tell you quickly whether the starter turns over with good power behind it. You will find both in our batteries and battery accessories section, along with copper battery terminal clamps for replacing a corroded connection.

How to Choose a Replacement Starter

Replacement starter motors must match the engine and gearbox in several ways. These are the points to check before you order.

Reference number

Most starters carry a label or stamped number. Match it to the listing title or the cross-references in the description. Our listings, such as the F-000-AL0-507 starter, are named by that number so you can find them by searching.

Pinion tooth count

The pinion must mesh correctly with the ring gear. Count the teeth on your old pinion. In our current range, three units have 9 teeth, the Ford Fiesta unit has 10 and the Dodge 5.7L unit has 13. A pinion with the wrong count will grind or fail to engage.

Power rating

Power is given in kilowatts. Small and mid-size petrol engines commonly use around 1 kW to 1.4 kW. Larger engines and diesels need more. Match the rating of the original or use the rating given for your engine.

Mounting flange and bolt holes

Compare the shape of the nose, the number and spacing of the bolt holes and the length of the body. The starter must sit squarely in the bell housing.

Terminals and solenoid position

Check the position of the main battery stud and the trigger terminal, and the angle of the solenoid. Your cables must reach and fit without strain.

Rotation

Most car starters turn clockwise viewed from the pinion end. The listing gives rotation where the supplier provides it, as with the Dodge 5.7L unit.

Comparison Table of Our Current Range

This table uses the figures the supplier gives on each product page. Read the full listing for the complete application notes before ordering.

The Ford Fiesta listing comes with only basic details from the supplier, so compare it closely with your old part and with the photos before ordering. If you are unsure, contact us first.

Our Current Starter Range in More Detail

Audi and Volkswagen

The 020 911 023 A starter motor is a 12V, 1.1 kW unit with a 9-tooth pinion, sold as one complete starter under the reference that workshops and parts catalogues use. The F-000-AL0-507 starter has the same basic ratings and is listed for the Pointer and the Golf. If your old label reads F 000 AL0 507, with or without spaces, that is the listing to compare.

Chevrolet

The 6004AA0020 starter motor is a 12V, 1.1 kW unit with a 9-tooth pinion and the cross-references 022069E2 and 113029.

Ford Fiesta

The Ford Fiesta starter has a 10-tooth pinion and a black finish. Photos from several angles help you compare the flange, terminals and nose with your old part.

Dodge and Chrysler 5.7L V8

The Dodge 5.7L starter is the most powerful unit in our current range at 1.4 kW, with a 13-tooth pinion and clockwise rotation. It is cross-referenced to 4608801AA, 4608801AB and 17896N.

Starter Motors for Petrol, Diesel and Stop-Start Engines

Not every engine asks the same of its starter. A small petrol engine turns over easily, so a compact unit of around 1 kW is enough. A large V8 needs more power, which is why the Dodge 5.7L unit in our range is rated at 1.4 kW. Diesel engines run much higher compression and usually need stronger starter motors again, often with a gear reduction design. Cold weather adds to the load on all of them, because thick oil and a cold battery both slow cranking.

Cars with automatic stop-start switch the engine off at traffic lights and restart it many times on every trip. These systems use heavy-duty starters, or in some cases a belt-driven starter-generator, built for far more starts than a normal unit. If your car has stop-start, the replacement must be the type listed for that system. A standard starter fitted in its place will wear out quickly.

Manual and automatic versions of the same car can also use different starters, because the bell housing and flywheel or flexplate differ. Always check the gearbox type as well as the engine.

Faults That Look Like a Bad Starter

Several small parts sit between your key and the starter, and any of them can stop the engine cranking. A failed starter relay or blown fuse cuts the trigger signal. A worn ignition switch may not send the signal at all. A faulty neutral safety switch on an automatic, or clutch switch on a manual, blocks starting as a safety measure. An immobiliser fault can stop the car cranking or firing. On newer cars, a fault code reader can help. Our diagnostic equipment section is the place to look for tools. Checking these before you replace any starter motors saves time and money.

Fitting a Starter Motor

Replacing starter motors is a common job, but access varies a lot. On some cars it is two bolts from above. On others it means working under the car, removing heat shields or loosening exhaust parts. If you are not comfortable working under a raised vehicle, have a workshop fit it. Use axle stands on firm ground, never just a jack.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable first. The main starter cable is always live.
2. Label or photograph the cables on the solenoid before removing them.
3. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the starter out, noting any spacer or shim.
4. Compare the new unit with the old one: flange, bolt holes, pinion teeth and terminals.
5. Fit the new starter, refit any spacer, tighten the bolts to the figure in your service information and refit the cables.
6. Reconnect the battery and test.

While the starter is out, look at the ring gear teeth through the opening if you can. Damaged teeth will quickly wear a new pinion. Also clean the mounting face so the starter has a good earth through its body.

How to Make a Starter Last Longer

• Crank for no more than a few seconds at a time and rest between attempts. Long cranking overheats the motor.
• Keep the battery charged and healthy. A weak battery makes the starter draw heavy current for longer.
• Keep terminals and the earth strap clean and tight.
• Fix oil leaks above the starter. Oil softens insulation and attracts dirt.
• Get misfires and hard-starting problems fixed so the engine fires quickly.

Related Parts and Sections

Starting depends on the whole electrical system. If the engine cranks well but will not fire, the cause is more likely ignition or fuel. Our ignition coil section and our spark plug section cover the ignition side. If the battery keeps going flat, the charging system may be at fault, and our alternators section lists units by part number. Damaged starter cables and plugs can sometimes be replaced from our wiring harnesses range. For workshop tools, see tools and equipment.

Who Our Starter Motors Suit

Our range suits drivers who have tested the battery and connections and traced the fault to the starter, home mechanics doing their own repairs, and workshops that order by reference number. Each unit is sold as a single complete starter. Because our range is still growing, check back or contact us if your number is not listed yet.

Buying Starter Motors From Easy Life Markets

Each listing gives the supplier's reference numbers, ratings and application notes, and photos from several angles. The current price and availability are shown on each product page. If you want help matching a starter, send us the number from your old unit and your vehicle details through our contact page. Shipping information is on our shipping policy page, returns are covered by our return and refund policy, and general questions are answered in our FAQ.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if it is the starter or the battery?

If the dash lights dim heavily or you hear rapid clicking, suspect the battery or connections. If the lights stay bright and you hear one click or nothing, the starter or its solenoid is more likely. A battery tester confirms it.

Does the pinion tooth count matter?

Yes. The pinion must mesh with the flywheel ring gear. A wrong tooth count can grind, fail to engage or damage the ring gear.

Can I fit a starter with a higher kW rating?

Only if it is listed for your engine and matches the flange, pinion and terminals. Do not fit one with a lower rating than the original.

Why does my new starter click but not crank?

Check the battery charge, the main cable, the earth strap and the trigger wire. A new starter cannot work without full current reaching it.

How long should I crank the engine?

A few seconds at a time. If it does not start, wait before trying again so the starter can cool.

Are starter motors hard to replace?

It depends on the car. Some are easy to reach and others need parts removed or work under the car. If in doubt, have a qualified mechanic fit it.

Should I replace just the solenoid or the whole starter?

On some designs the solenoid can be replaced separately, but on many it is built into the unit. A complete starter replaces the motor, brushes, bearings, pinion and solenoid in one go, so you are not left with old parts that may fail next. It is also quicker to fit, which matters when access is awkward.

What if my old starter has no readable number?

Contact us with your vehicle's make, model, year, engine and gearbox type, and a photo of the old unit. We will help you compare it with our listings.