Gaskets

Engine Gaskets, Gasket Sets and Seal Kits

Easy Life Markets sells engine gaskets, full gasket sets and parts that come with their own seals, listed by part number and engine so you can match them before you order. This category covers the seals that keep oil, coolant, fuel and combustion gas inside the engine and transmission: valve cover gaskets, head and base gaskets, full rebuild sets, pan gaskets and the O-rings and washers that go with them.

What should you buy? Start with where the leak or job is. Oil on top of the engine usually points to the valve cover gasket. A full engine strip needs a complete set. Transmission service needs a pan gasket with the filter. Then match the part number or engine model to our product page. Many of our parts arrive with the gaskets already in the box, so you may not need to buy them separately.

What Is in This Category

This sub-category is part of our engine section inside the auto parts department. It brings together standalone gasket sets and kits that include gaskets as part of a larger repair. Our current range includes:

• The Yamaha YZ125 full gasket kit, a complete engine set with O-rings for a full rebuild.
• The Hyundai Elantra valve cover with gasket for the 2.0L engine in the Elantra and Kia Spectra, 2004 to 2010.
• The 5.7 Hemi camshaft and lifter kit, which includes the gaskets needed for the job.
• The AMR6103 injector wiring loom with rocker gasket, O-rings and washers for the Td5 engine.
• The Nissan CVT filter kit with pan gasket and the 722.6 conductor plate kit with filter and pan gasket for transmission service.
• The SDH150 cylinder kit and Yamaha PW50 big bore kit, which include the cylinder gaskets.

We add new gasket sets and seal kits regularly. The guide below covers engine gaskets in general, so you can use it whatever engine you are working on.

What a Gasket Does

A gasket fills the tiny gaps between two metal surfaces that are bolted together. No machined face is perfectly flat, and engines heat up, cool down and vibrate all day. The gasket compresses under the clamping force of the bolts and keeps a tight seal through all of that. The Wikipedia article on the gasket explains the basic principle and the common materials.

Different joints face very different conditions. A valve cover gasket deals with warm oil and little pressure. A head gasket has to hold combustion pressure, coolant and oil at the same time, at high temperature. That is why gaskets come in so many materials and shapes.

The Main Types of Engine Gaskets

Here is a plain guide to the gaskets you are most likely to need, from the top of the engine down.

Valve cover gaskets

The valve cover sits on top of the cylinder head and keeps oil in around the camshafts and valves. Its gasket is usually rubber or silicone, sometimes with separate seals for the spark plug tubes. Over the years heat makes the rubber hard, and it starts to seep. This is the most common oil leak on older engines. On some engines, like the Hyundai 2.0L, the cover itself can crack or warp, so replacing the cover and gasket together makes sense.

Head gaskets

The head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and the block. It keeps combustion gas in the cylinders and keeps oil and coolant in their own passages. Modern head gaskets are often multi-layer steel. A failed head gasket can cause overheating, white smoke, coolant loss or oil mixing with coolant. The head gasket article on Wikipedia describes the common failure signs.

Cylinder base gaskets

On motorcycles and scooters with a separate cylinder, the base gasket seals the cylinder to the crankcase. It is usually a thin paper or composite sheet. Its thickness can affect the engine's compression and port timing, so use the one made for your engine.

Intake and exhaust gaskets

Intake gaskets seal the manifold or carburettor to the head. A leak here lets in extra air and makes the engine run lean or idle badly. Exhaust gaskets handle very high heat and usually use metal or graphite layers.

Oil pan and transmission pan gaskets

Pan gaskets seal the sump or transmission pan to the housing. They are usually cork, rubber or moulded rubber with a metal core. Transmission pan gaskets are normally changed whenever the filter is serviced.

Full gasket sets

A full set contains every gasket and O-ring needed to strip and rebuild an engine. It saves you hunting for each one separately. It is the right choice for a full top and bottom end rebuild, such as on an off-road bike after a season of hard use.

O-rings, seals and washers

O-rings seal round fittings such as injectors, sensors and oil passages. Crush washers seal drain plugs and banjo bolts. Both are cheap and should be replaced whenever the part is removed.

Engine Gaskets Compared

How to Find a Leak Before You Buy

Oil and coolant run downhill and get blown back by air flow, so a leak is not always where it looks. A little detective work saves buying the wrong gasket.

1. Clean the area. Degrease the engine around the suspected leak and let it dry.
2. Run the engine and look. Check again after a short drive. The highest point of fresh oil is usually where the leak starts.
3. Check the oil and coolant. Milky oil or oily coolant points to an internal leak such as a head gasket.
4. Look for the easy causes first. A loose drain plug, a cracked hose or a loose filter can look like a gasket leak.
5. Use a scan tool for intake leaks. Lean running codes often point to an air leak. Our diagnostic equipment section has tools for reading codes.

How to Choose the Right Engine Gaskets

Gaskets must match the shape, bolt holes and thickness of the joint exactly. Use these checks.

1. Match the engine code. One model can have several engines, each with its own gaskets. Read the engine code from the block or the label under the hood.
2. Match the part number. Compare the number on the old gasket, cover or kit with the numbers on our product page.
3. Check the year range. Gasket designs sometimes change mid-model.
4. Check what is in the set. A valve cover gasket set may include spark plug tube seals and bolt grommets, or it may not. A full set should cover the whole engine.
5. Check the thickness when it matters. Base and head gaskets affect compression. Use the thickness your engine is built for unless you are changing it on purpose.
6. Look at the photos. Compare the outline, bolt holes and passages with your old gasket.

Not sure? Send your part number and engine details through our contact page and we will help you check fitment first.

Fitting Tips for New Gaskets

A new gasket only seals if the surfaces are right and the bolts are tightened properly. These habits make the difference.

• Clean both surfaces completely. Remove all old gasket material with a plastic scraper or gasket remover. Avoid gouging aluminium.
• Check for flatness. On heads and covers, check the face with a straight edge. A warped face will not seal, whatever gasket you use.
• Use sealant only where the manual says. Some joints need a small dab at corners or seams. Many modern gaskets are designed to go on dry. Too much sealant can block oil passages.
• Tighten in the right order. Bolts on heads and covers have a set sequence and torque in the service manual. Follow it. Over-tightening crushes rubber gaskets and can crack covers.
• Replace one-time bolts. Many head bolts are stretch bolts and must not be reused. Check your manual.
• Replace related seals. If the cover is off, change spark plug tube seals and bolt grommets at the same time.
• Recheck after a short run. Look for leaks once the engine has warmed up and cooled down again.

Head gasket replacement is a big job that needs special tools and service data. If you have not done one before, we recommend a qualified mechanic.

Gaskets That Come With Other Parts

Many repairs need a gasket as part of the job. Buying a kit that already includes it saves a second order.

Camshaft and valve train work

Changing a camshaft means removing covers, so new seals are part of the job. The Hemi kit includes gaskets for that reason. Browse more in our camshafts section.

Top end rebuilds

Cylinder and big bore kits include base and head gaskets. See our pistons and cylinder and block parts for more.

Timing work

Timing covers need new seals when they are removed. Some kits, like the 1.8T timing chain tensioner kit, include a gasket. More sit in our timing section.

Transmission service

Filter kits with pan gaskets are part of routine transmission service. Our transmissions section has more parts.

Gasket Materials Explained

Engine gaskets are made from different materials because each joint faces different heat, pressure and fluids. Knowing the material helps you understand how a gasket should be fitted and why it failed.

Rubber and silicone

Used for valve covers, some pans and many O-rings. They are flexible and seal well at low pressure. They harden with heat and age, which is why old covers start to seep. Do not over-tighten rubber gaskets, or they squeeze out of shape.

Paper and fibre composite

Common for base gaskets, water pump gaskets and small covers on motorcycles and scooters. They are thin and compress to fill small gaps. They tear easily, so handle them carefully and keep them flat until fitting.

Cork and cork-rubber

Used on older oil pans and some transmission pans. Cork compresses well but can split if over-tightened or stored dry.

Multi-layer steel

Most modern head gaskets are several thin steel layers with a coating. They handle high pressure and heat well, but they need clean, flat surfaces to seal.

Copper and aluminium

Used for crush washers on drain plugs and banjo bolts, and for some exhaust and head gaskets. Solid washers seal by deforming once, so fit new ones each time.

Air Leaks on Small Engines

On two-stroke engines, gaskets do more than stop oil leaks. The crankcase is part of the intake system, so an air leak at a base gasket, intake gasket or crank seal lets in extra air. The engine then runs lean, revs high at idle and can overheat or seize. If a small engine idles erratically after a rebuild, check every gasket joint and seal before anything else. A full set like the YZ125 kit replaces every seal in one go, which is why many riders use them for a complete rebuild.

Tools That Make Gasket Jobs Easier

You do not need a lot of tools for most gasket jobs, but the right ones help.

• A plastic scraper or gasket remover, so you do not scratch soft surfaces.
• A torque wrench, so bolts reach the figure in your manual and no more.
• A straight edge and feeler gauges, to check heads and covers for warping.
• Brake cleaner or degreaser and lint-free cloths, to get surfaces clean and dry.
• A socket set and extensions for bolts in tight spaces. Our tools and equipment section has workshop tools.

Caring for Gaskets and Preventing Leaks

• Avoid overheating. High temperatures are the main cause of hard, cracked gaskets and failed head gaskets.
• Keep the cooling system healthy, with the right coolant and no air pockets.
• Change the oil on time. Old, thin oil and blocked breathers raise crankcase pressure and push oil past seals.
• Do not over-tighten covers and drain plugs.
• Fix small leaks early, before oil damages rubber hoses and wiring nearby.

Who This Category Suits

These engine gaskets and kits suit home mechanics fixing oil leaks, riders rebuilding dirt bike or scooter engines, and workshops looking for a specific part number. They are also a good buy for anyone doing a service job where a cover comes off, so a fresh seal goes back on.

A tip from our side: when you order a part that bolts onto the engine, check whether its seal is included before you check out. If it is not, add the matching engine gaskets to the same order. Waiting for a small seal is a common reason a weekend job runs into the next week.

The current price and availability are shown on each product page. If a part does not suit your engine, our return and refund policy explains what to do. For delivery information, see our shipping policy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reuse an old gasket?

It is not a good idea. Most gaskets compress once and lose their ability to seal. A new one is cheap compared with doing the job twice.

Do I need sealant with a new gasket?

Only where your service manual calls for it. Many gaskets go on dry. Too much sealant can squeeze into the engine and block passages.

How do I know if my head gasket has failed?

Common signs are overheating, white exhaust smoke, coolant loss and milky oil. A workshop can confirm it with a pressure or block test.

Should I buy a full gasket set or single gaskets?

For one leak, a single gasket is enough. For a full rebuild, a complete set saves time and makes sure nothing is missed.

Why does my valve cover still leak after a new gasket?

The cover may be warped or cracked, the bolts may be uneven, or the leak may come from somewhere else. Check the cover face and the bolt grommets.

Do your camshaft and cylinder kits include gaskets?

Several do. Each product page lists the contents, so check there before you order separate seals.

Where can I find more answers?

Our FAQ page covers ordering and returns.