Control Arms

Control Arms for Cars, SUVs and Trucks

Control arms are the hinged links that hold each wheel to the body or subframe, and Easy Life Markets sells them as single arms, left and right pairs, adjustable camber arms and complete front-end kits. If your car clunks over bumps, pulls to one side or wears the inside edge of its tyres, a worn arm, a loose ball joint or a split bushing is a likely cause, and this page will help you find the right replacement.

Our current range includes front lower arm pairs with the ball joint already fitted, upper arms for lifted trucks, adjustable arms for lowered or lifted vehicles, rear tubular arm sets and multi-piece kits that also cover tie rod ends and sway bar links. Each listing gives the vehicle, year range, position and reference numbers. Match those to your vehicle before you order, and the current price and availability are shown on each product page.

What a Control Arm Does

A control arm is a stiff link with a pivot at each end. The inner end bolts to the subframe or body through one or two bushings. The outer end connects to the steering knuckle or hub, usually through a ball joint. When the wheel rides over a bump, the arm swings up and down on its bushings while the ball joint lets the knuckle pivot and steer.

That simple job matters a great deal. The arm decides where the wheel sits in relation to the body. It holds the camber angle, it helps hold the caster angle, and it keeps the wheel from moving forward or back under braking. A bent or worn arm lets the wheel shift, and you feel it as wander, vibration or a knock.

Most modern cars use control arms at the front. Many also use them at the rear, where they may be called links, trailing arms or camber arms. The names vary between makers, but the principle is the same: a rigid link that locates the wheel and lets it move only in the direction the designer intended.

Types of Control Arms We Sell

The right type depends on how your vehicle's suspension is built. Here are the main groups you will find in this collection and across our suspension and steering category.

Front lower control arms

The lower arm is the main load path at the front of most cars. On a MacPherson strut car it is the only arm on each side, so it carries braking, cornering and bump forces through one ball joint and two bushings. Lower arms are the most commonly replaced type. Our Kia Forte lower arm pair, Altima front lower arm pair and Ford C-Max pair are good examples. Each arm arrives as a complete assembly with the ball joint already in place.

Front upper control arms

Double wishbone and short-long arm suspensions use an upper arm above the lower one. Trucks and many SUVs are built this way. The upper arm is shorter and lighter, but it still sets camber and caster. Our 2-4 inch lift upper arms for GM trucks are made for vehicles that have been raised, where the factory arm runs out of adjustment and the ball joint works at a steep angle.

Adjustable and camber arms

An adjustable arm has a threaded section or an eccentric so its length can be changed. That lets an alignment shop set camber or toe where a fixed arm cannot. These arms suit lowered cars, lifted trucks and anyone who wants to correct tyre wear after a ride height change. The Civic rear camber arm kit, the CR-V front camber arms and the Accord camber kit all fall into this group.

Rear arms and links

Solid-axle cars use rear arms to locate the axle. The 1979-2004 Mustang rear arm set includes two upper and two lower tubular arms with bushings installed. Independent rear suspensions use several smaller links per side, and many of those are sold under the same heading.

Off-road and lift arms

Lifted Jeeps and trucks need arms of a different length to keep the axle centred and the pinion angle correct. The Wrangler TJ front lower arms are adjustable steel arms with polyurethane bushings, listed for lifts up to four inches.

Complete front-end kits

When one part of the front end is worn, the others are usually close behind. Kits put lower arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links and rack boots in one box, so the whole front end is renewed in one visit. We sell the 14-piece Camry kit, the 10-piece Nissan Rogue kit, the 8-piece Maxima kit and a four-arm Silverado upper and lower set.

How to Tell Your Control Arms Are Worn

Arms rarely fail all at once. The rubber bushings crack, the ball joint loosens, and the arm itself may bend after a kerb strike or a deep pothole. Watch for these signs:

• Clunk or knock over bumps, speed humps or when you brake hard.
• Steering wander on a straight road, so you keep correcting the wheel.
• Uneven tyre wear, often on the inner or outer edge of one front tyre.
• Vibration through the steering wheel at certain speeds.
• Pull under braking, where the car darts to one side as the bushing lets the arm move.
• Visible damage: torn bushing rubber, a split ball joint boot, rust holes or a bent arm.

A mechanic checks this with the car raised and the wheel unloaded, using a pry bar to look for movement at the bushings and the ball joint. If you see play, plan a replacement soon. A badly worn ball joint can separate, and the wheel can then fold under the car.

Choosing the Right Replacement

Fitment is everything with suspension parts. Two cars of the same model can use different arms depending on the engine, drive type, trim or build date. Work through this list before you order.

1. Confirm the vehicle details. Make, model, year, engine, two-wheel or four-wheel drive, and any special suspension package.
2. Confirm the position. Front or rear, upper or lower, left or right, forward or rearward. Some cars have two lower arms per side.
3. Check the reference number. Compare the number on your old part, or in your parts catalogue, with the numbers in our listing.
4. Check the exclusions. Our product pages list them. For example, the Altima pair excludes the Hybrid, and the Silverado kit is only for trucks built with cast iron lower arms.
5. Decide what you want included. A complete arm with ball joint and bushings saves pressing work. A bare arm is cheaper but needs those parts fitted separately.
6. Think about ride height. If the vehicle is lifted or lowered, a standard arm may not give enough adjustment. Look at adjustable arms instead.

If anything is unclear, contact us with your vehicle details and the part number from the old arm. We will check the listing details with you before you buy.

Materials and Construction

Arm material affects weight, strength and price. Most replacement arms are made in one of these forms.

Our 2009-2014 Maxima lower arms are aluminium, matching the factory design on that car. The 1994-2004 Mustang lower arms are powder-coated steel with rubber bushings. The BMW lower forward arms are listed for xDrive versions of the 5, 6 and 7 Series.

Bushing and Ball Joint Choices

An arm is only as good as the pivots at each end. Most replacement arms come with rubber bushings, because rubber absorbs vibration and keeps road noise low. Polyurethane is firmer. It holds the arm more tightly, which sharpens steering and reduces movement under braking, but it passes more noise and harshness into the cabin.

If you only need new pivots, our bushings collection has polyurethane sets such as the BMW E46 front bushing set. If the joint at the outer end is the problem, look at our ball joint collection, which lists arms and kits with joints included.

For most daily drivers, a complete arm with fresh rubber bushings and a new ball joint is the simplest repair. You replace every wearing part at once, and you avoid pressing old bushings out of a rusty arm.

Replace in Pairs

We sell most front arms as left and right pairs, and there is a good reason. Both sides of the car cover the same miles and the same roads. If one side is worn, the other is usually not far behind. Fitting a new arm on one side only can leave the car feeling uneven, with one corner tight and the other soft.

Replacing both sides also means the alignment is set once, on fresh parts. That saves you paying for a second alignment a few months later.

Fitting Control Arms Safely

Suspension arms are safety-critical. If an arm or its ball joint fails, you can lose steering control. We recommend professional fitting by a qualified mechanic, especially for front arms and anything involving a spring under load.

If you have the experience to do the job yourself, keep these points in mind:

• Support the vehicle on proper axle stands on solid ground. Never work under a car held only by a jack.
• Use the fastener tightening values from the vehicle maker's service information. We do not publish torque figures on this page.
• Tighten bushing bolts with the suspension at normal ride height, not hanging. Tightening them with the wheel hanging can twist the rubber and shorten its life.
• Replace self-locking nuts and cotter pins where the service information says to.
• Have a full wheel alignment done straight after fitting. New arms change the geometry, and a car driven out of alignment will wear its tyres fast.

Basic hand tools, a breaker bar and a ball joint separator are usually needed. You can find general tools in our tools and equipment section. For a deeper look at the angles involved, the wheel alignment article explains camber, caster and toe clearly.

Care and Inspection

New arms need little attention, but a quick look every time the car is on a lift will catch problems early.

• Check the ball joint boot for splits. Dirt and water get in fast once the boot is torn.
• Look at the bushing rubber for cracks, bulges or oil contamination.
• On adjustable arms, check that the lock nuts are still tight.
• Rinse road salt and mud off the underside where you can, especially on steel arms.
• Have the alignment checked after a hard pothole or kerb strike, even if the car feels fine.

Who These Parts Suit

Our control arms suit several kinds of buyer:

• Daily drivers with a knocking front end who want a direct replacement pair.
• Owners of older, high-mileage cars who want to renew the whole front end with one kit.
• Truck and Jeep owners with a lift who need arms that restore geometry.
• Enthusiasts with lowered cars who need camber and toe adjustment.
• Independent workshops sourcing parts by reference number for customer cars.

Our range will keep growing as we add more vehicles. If you do not see your car yet, check back or send us a message through the contact page.

Related Parts You May Need

Arm replacement often goes with other front-end work. While the car is apart, look at the parts that share the same mounting points:

• Tie rod ends, which steer the knuckle and wear at a similar rate.
• Struts and shock absorbers, which carry the spring on most front-wheel-drive cars.
• Steering rack assemblies and repair kits, if the steering also feels loose.
• Brake parts, since the caliper often comes off to reach the arm.

You can browse every suspension, steering, brake and engine part in our full auto parts catalogue.

Buying Tips from Our Team

A few habits make ordering easier and save returns:

• Take a photo of the old arm next to a tape measure before you order. Compare it with our product photos.
• Write down the number stamped or printed on the old arm, if there is one.
• Read the full product page, including what is in the box and what is not.
• Budget for a wheel alignment as part of the job.
• Order both sides at once if you are replacing a front lower arm.

Our return and refund policy explains what to do if a part does not suit your vehicle. Shipping details are on our shipping policy page, and our FAQ page answers general store questions.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do control arms last?

It depends on roads, load and climate. Many last a long time, but bushings and ball joints wear sooner on rough roads. Inspect them at every service once a car has some age on it.

Can I replace just one side?

You can, but we recommend pairs. Both sides wear together, and a matched pair keeps the handling even and needs only one alignment.

Do your arms come with the ball joint fitted?

Many do. Each product page says whether the ball joint and bushings are included. The Kia Forte, Altima, Maxima and Mustang lower arm pairs, for example, have the joint already fitted.

Do I need an alignment after fitting new control arms?

Yes. New arms change the wheel angles slightly. A full alignment protects your tyres and makes sure the car tracks straight.

What is the difference between upper and lower arms?

The lower arm carries most of the load and is fitted on almost every car. The upper arm is found on double wishbone designs, common on trucks and some SUVs, and mainly sets camber and caster.

Are adjustable arms a good idea for a standard car?

Usually not needed. Adjustable arms make sense when ride height has changed or when the factory arm cannot correct the alignment. For a standard car, a direct replacement is simpler.

How do I know an arm will fit my vehicle?

Match the make, model, year, position and reference number to our listing, and check the exclusions. If you are still unsure, contact us before you order.

Can I fit control arms myself?

Experienced home mechanics often do, with axle stands and the maker's service information. Because these are safety-critical parts, we recommend professional fitting for most people.