Clutch Parts for Cars, Motorcycles and Small Engines
Easy Life Markets sells clutch parts for cars, motorcycles, ATVs, go-karts and mini bikes. This category covers the parts that connect and disconnect the engine from the gearbox: hydraulic clutch master cylinders, handlebar clutch levers, cable to hydraulic conversion kits, centrifugal clutches for small engines, clutch fork motors for automated gearboxes and the small fittings that keep a hydraulic system sealed. Each part is listed by reference number, vehicle or size, so you can match it to the part you are replacing.
If you are not sure where to start, think about the symptom. A pedal that sinks to the floor or feels spongy usually points to the master cylinder or a leak. A clutch that slips under load points to worn friction parts. A heavy, notchy lever on a motorcycle often means a stretched cable or a worn lever pivot. A small engine that creeps at idle or will not pull usually needs a new centrifugal clutch. Find the part that matches your symptom below, then check the part number on the product page against the one on your vehicle.
What a Clutch Does and Where Each Part Fits
A clutch lets the engine keep turning while the wheels stop. In a manual car, a friction disc is clamped between the flywheel and a pressure plate. Press the pedal and a release bearing pushes on the pressure plate springs, the clamp lets go, and drive is cut. Let the pedal up and the clamp returns. You can read a clear overview of the different types of clutch if you want the full background.
Everything between your foot (or hand) and that release bearing is the operating side of the clutch. Everything at the flywheel is the friction side. Most clutch parts fall into one of these two groups, and knowing which group you need saves time and money.
- Operating side: pedal or lever, cable, master cylinder, fluid line, slave cylinder, clutch fork, release bearing, or an electric actuator on automated gearboxes.
- Friction side: clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel on cars; clutch plates and springs on motorcycles; shoes and drum on centrifugal clutches.
Our clutch range sits inside the wider transmission and drivetrain section of our auto parts store.
Main Types of Clutch Parts We Sell
Hydraulic clutch master cylinders for cars
The clutch master cylinder sits on the bulkhead behind the pedal. When you press the pedal, a push rod moves a piston, and fluid is pushed down the line to the slave cylinder at the gearbox. Seals inside the master cylinder wear over time. When they do, the pedal can feel soft, sink slowly or fail to release the clutch fully, which makes gears hard to select.
Our current range includes the 2S817A543AD clutch master cylinder, which has a mounting bracket, an eye-end push rod and two capped pipe connections, and the Nissan 30610 series clutch master cylinder with a black plastic body. Match the reference number on your old cylinder before you order.
Motorcycle hydraulic clutch master cylinders
Many motorcycles, dirt bikes and ATVs use a small hydraulic pump at the handlebar or a push-rod cylinder lower down. The motorcycle hydraulic clutch master cylinder with push rod is about 155 mm long and comes in several colors. It suits custom builds and repairs where a push-rod cylinder is needed. Check the mounting, the push rod thread and the piston size against your setup.
Cable to hydraulic clutch conversion kits
A cable clutch is simple, but the cable stretches, needs adjusting and gets heavier as it ages. A hydraulic system uses fluid instead, so the pull stays more even. The cable to hydraulic clutch conversion kit is CNC-machined aluminum with a 14 mm handlebar pump. It suits riders who want a lighter pull and builders updating an older bike. A conversion is a bigger job than a straight swap, so read the product page carefully and plan the routing of the line.
Handlebar levers and controls
Bent or worn levers are common after a drop. The brake master cylinder and clutch lever set for 22 mm handlebars gives you a right-hand front brake master cylinder and a left-hand cable clutch lever with its perch, listed under the GN125 reference. Replacing both sides at once keeps the controls matched.
Reservoir fittings and seals
Small parts cause big leaks. The master cylinder reservoir elbow kit contains the elbow fitting, a rubber seal, a circlip and an O-ring for push-type cylinders with a remote reservoir. It is a cheap fix for a cracked or weeping elbow on a rear brake or hydraulic clutch cylinder.
Centrifugal clutches for small engines
A centrifugal clutch engages by itself. Weighted shoes inside the drum are held in by springs. As engine speed rises, the shoes swing out and grip the drum, and the machine moves. At idle they pull back in and the machine stops. These are used on go-karts, mini bikes, some scooters and small motorcycles. Our range includes the go kart centrifugal clutch with a 20 mm bore and 12-tooth sprocket and the Italika 80cc centrifugal clutch listed for the Vrex 80cc.
Clutch actuators and fork motors
Some gearboxes have no clutch pedal at all. An electric motor, often called a clutch actuator, moves the clutch fork when the transmission control module tells it to. When it fails, you may see rough shifts, warning lights or a car that will not select a gear. The AE8Z-7C604-A clutch fork motor is listed by that reference number. Fit it only if your old part carries the same number or your parts catalogue confirms it.
Clutch Parts Comparison Table
This table sums up the main groups of clutch parts, what each one does and what to check before you buy.
| Part type | What it does | Common signs of wear | Check before buying |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clutch master cylinder (car) | Turns pedal movement into fluid pressure | Soft or sinking pedal, fluid loss, hard gear changes | Reference number, pipe connections, bracket shape, push rod end |
| Motorcycle clutch pump or cylinder | Turns lever or rod movement into fluid pressure | Spongy lever, leaks at the seal, clutch drag | Bar size, piston size, mounting, push rod length |
| Cable to hydraulic kit | Replaces a cable clutch with a fluid system | Heavy pull, cable stretch, frequent adjustment | Bar size, slave mounting, line length and routing |
| Clutch lever and perch | Hand control for a cable clutch | Bent lever, loose pivot, stiff action | Bar diameter, cable end type, mirror mount |
| Centrifugal clutch | Engages drive automatically with engine speed | Slipping, creeping at idle, burnt smell, worn shoes | Shaft bore, sprocket tooth count, chain size, engine model |
| Clutch fork motor or actuator | Moves the clutch fork on automated gearboxes | Rough or failed shifts, warning lights, fault codes | Exact reference number and connector |
| Reservoir elbow and seals | Feeds fluid from reservoir to cylinder | Weeping fluid, cracked fitting, air in the system | Cylinder type, elbow angle, seal size |
How to Choose the Right Clutch Parts
Choosing clutch parts is mostly about matching. A part that looks right but has a different bore, thread or connector will not work. Use these steps every time.
- Read the number on your old part. Master cylinders, actuators and many clutches carry a stamped or printed reference. Compare it with the number on our product page.
- Confirm your vehicle details. Make, model, year, engine and gearbox type all matter. Two versions of one model can use different clutch systems.
- Check the connections. For hydraulic parts, look at the pipe fittings, the reservoir type and the push rod end. For cable parts, check the cable end.
- Measure where it counts. Handlebar diameter for levers, shaft bore and sprocket teeth for centrifugal clutches, overall length for push-rod cylinders.
- Compare photos. Look at the mounting holes, bracket shape and port positions in our photos and hold them up against your part.
- Ask if in doubt. Send us your part number and vehicle details through our contact page before you order.
Specifications to Check on Clutch Parts
For hydraulic clutch parts
Look at the piston or bore size, because it changes how much fluid moves per stroke and how the pedal or lever feels. Check the outlet thread and fitting type, whether the reservoir is built in or remote, and the shape of the push rod. A different bore can change the feel and the release point, so stay with what your vehicle was built with unless you are deliberately building a custom system.
For centrifugal clutches
The three key numbers are the bore (the shaft size it fits), the sprocket tooth count and the chain size. Engagement speed also matters, as it sets when the kart or bike starts to move. The bore must match your engine shaft exactly, with the correct key.
For cable clutch controls
Handlebar diameter comes first. Most road bikes use 22 mm (7/8 inch) bars, but not all. Then check the cable end type and whether the perch includes a mirror mount or switch housing.
For electronic actuators
Only the exact reference number counts. Actuators are usually matched to the gearbox and the software that controls it. Some need a learning or adaptation procedure after fitting, which a workshop with the right diagnostic tool can carry out.
Fitting Clutch Parts Safely
Many clutch parts can be fitted at home by a careful owner with basic tools. Others need more experience. Be honest about which job you are taking on.
- Work on a cool vehicle, on level ground, with the wheels chocked. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Hydraulic clutches need bleeding after any part is changed. Air left in the system gives a soft pedal and poor release. Use the fluid type your vehicle handbook or reservoir cap names.
- Clutch and brake fluid can damage paint. Cover painted areas and clean spills straight away.
- On motorcycles, the front brake and the clutch share the handlebar. If you replace a brake master cylinder at the same time as a lever, have a professional check the brake before you ride.
- Replacing a car clutch disc or pressure plate means removing the gearbox. That is a workshop job for most people.
- After fitting an electronic actuator, have the system checked and adapted if your vehicle needs it.
Our auto repair tools section has tools that help with drivetrain work, and you can browse transmission parts such as sensors and solenoids if your gearbox fault turns out not to be the clutch.
Care and Maintenance for Clutch Systems
A clutch lasts much longer when it is used well and the operating side is kept in good order. These habits help.
- Do not rest your foot on the pedal or your fingers on the lever while riding. Even light pressure can cause slip and wear.
- Check the fluid level in the reservoir now and then. A dropping level means a leak somewhere. Find it before it gets worse.
- Change hydraulic fluid at the interval your handbook gives. Old fluid absorbs moisture, which can corrode the bore of the cylinder.
- Keep cable clutches adjusted and lubricated. A dry cable wears quickly and makes the lever heavy.
- On centrifugal clutches, keep the chain clean and correctly tensioned, and avoid long periods of slipping under load.
- Listen for changes. New noises when you press the pedal, such as a whirr or rattle, often point to a release bearing.
Who These Clutch Parts Suit
Our clutch range is built for people who fix things. That includes car owners replacing a leaking master cylinder, riders repairing levers after a fall, builders converting a bike to hydraulic operation, go-kart and mini bike owners, and small workshops that need a specific part number. If you run a workshop, the clear reference numbers on our listings make it easier to order the right part first time.
We are adding more clutch parts as the range grows, including parts for more vehicle makes. Check back, or browse the related ranges below.
Related Drivetrain and Clutch Ranges
A clutch is one part of the drivetrain. When you are already working underneath, it can make sense to check the other parts that carry power to the wheels.
- Driveshafts for rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, such as the 2015-2019 Challenger rear driveshaft.
- CV joints and axles for front-wheel drive cars and SUVs, such as the 2009-2018 Corolla CV axle pair.
- Differentials, including the carrier and pinion bearing puller.
- Engine mounts, which hold the engine and gearbox in place and can cause clutch judder when worn.
- Our brakes section, as many motorcycle brake and clutch controls share parts.
Buying Clutch Parts from Easy Life Markets
Every product page shows the reference numbers, fitment notes and photos we have for that part. Read them in full before you order. The current price and availability are shown on each product page. For delivery information, see our shipping policy. If a part does not fit, our return and refund policy explains what to do. You will find answers to general questions on our FAQ page.
The simplest way to get it right is to send us the number from your old part. We will tell you whether one of our clutch parts matches, so you can order with confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my clutch master cylinder is failing?
The usual signs are a soft or sinking pedal, fluid loss from the reservoir, fluid on the pedal box carpet and gears that grind because the clutch does not fully release. A slave cylinder or line leak can cause the same signs, so check the whole system.
Can I replace only the master cylinder, or should I change the slave too?
You can replace only the faulty part. Many owners change both at once on older vehicles, because the seals have aged together and the system needs bleeding either way.
What is the difference between a cable clutch and a hydraulic clutch?
A cable clutch uses a steel cable to pull the release arm. A hydraulic clutch uses fluid pressure through a master and slave cylinder. Hydraulic systems adjust themselves and usually feel lighter. Cable systems are simpler and easier to repair at the roadside.
How do I choose a centrifugal clutch for a go-kart?
Match the bore to your engine shaft, the sprocket tooth count to your gearing and the chain size to your chain. Then check that the engagement speed suits your engine.
Why does my clutch slip?
Slip is usually worn friction material, oil contamination or a clutch that never fully engages because the pedal or cable is out of adjustment. A worn centrifugal clutch slips when the shoes or drum are worn.
Do I need to bleed the clutch after fitting a new master cylinder?
Yes. Any time the hydraulic system is opened, air gets in. Bleed it until the pedal or lever feels firm and the clutch releases fully.
Are these clutch parts suitable for my vehicle?
Check the reference number and fitment shown on each product page against your old part. If you cannot find a number, contact us with your vehicle details and a photo, and we will help you check.