Engine Mounts and Motor Mount Kits at Easy Life Markets
Engine mounts hold your engine and gearbox in place and soak up the vibration they make, and this category at Easy Life Markets covers single engine mounts, transmission mounts and complete motor mount kits for a range of popular cars. When a mount wears out, you feel it as a clunk when you pull away, extra vibration at idle or an engine that rocks when you rev it.
What should you buy? If one mount has failed and the car is high mileage, the others are usually close behind, so a full kit is often the better value. If only one mount is clearly damaged and the rest are fairly new, a single mount or pair will do. Match by the part numbers in each listing. The current price and availability are shown on each product page.
What Engine Mounts Do
An engine produces torque and vibration all the time it runs. Mounts sit between the engine, the gearbox and the vehicle body or subframe. They do two jobs at once. They hold the powertrain in the right position, so drive shafts, hoses, cables and exhaust stay aligned. They also isolate the cabin from vibration, so you do not feel every firing pulse through the steering wheel and seats.
A typical mount is a steel or aluminium bracket with a block of rubber bonded inside. The rubber flexes enough to absorb vibration but not so much that the engine moves around. The idea is the same as any vibration isolation system: a flexible element between a source of shaking and the structure you want to keep quiet.
Most cars have three or four mounts. Front-wheel-drive cars with a transverse engine usually have mounts on each side plus a torque mount, sometimes called a dog bone or torque strut, that stops the engine rocking forward and back. Rear-wheel-drive cars often have two engine mounts and one transmission mount at the back of the gearbox.
Types of Engine Mounts
Solid Rubber Engine Mounts
The most common type. A rubber block is bonded to metal plates or a bracket. Simple, cheap to make and long-lasting when kept free of oil and heat. Over time the rubber hardens, cracks or tears, and the mount lets the engine move too much.
Hydraulic (Fluid-Filled) Mounts
Many modern cars use mounts with fluid chambers inside the rubber. The fluid damps vibration better at idle. When they fail, they often leak, and you may see an oily residue on the mount body. Some cars also use electronically controlled active mounts, which change their stiffness with engine speed.
Transmission Mounts
The gearbox needs support too. A transmission mount holds the rear of the gearbox or one side of a transverse unit. A worn one can cause clunks when changing gear or shifting between drive and reverse. Our BMW transmission mount 22316771219 set of 2 is listed for E30, E36, E39 and E46 models with automatic gearboxes. For other gearbox components, see our transmissions category.
Torque Mounts and Struts
These control forward and backward rocking. They are often the first to wear on front-wheel-drive cars because they take the full reaction of the engine's torque. Many complete kits include them.
Complete Motor Mount Kits
A kit replaces all the mounts on the engine and gearbox in one go. Mounts age together, and fitting one new mount next to old ones can load the new mount unevenly. Our Honda Accord 3.0L V6 motor mount kit includes six mounts, and the Camry 2.5L motor mount kit includes four.
Engine Mount Options Compared
| Option | Best for | Advantages | Things to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single replacement mount | One clearly failed mount on a newer car | Lower cost, quick job | Other old mounts may fail soon after |
| Pair of mounts | Cars where left and right mounts carry the engine | Balanced support both sides | Check left and right part numbers |
| Engine and transmission set | High-mileage cars with general vibration | All supports renewed together | Bigger job, engine must be supported |
| Hydraulic mount | Cars that came with fluid mounts | Smooth idle, low cabin vibration | Replace like for like |
| Solid rubber mount | Most everyday cars | Simple, durable design | Rubber ages with heat and oil |
Signs Your Engine Mounts Are Worn
- Clunk or thud when pulling away, braking or changing gear. The engine is moving further than it should before the mount stops it.
- Heavy vibration at idle, especially in drive with the brake held on an automatic. You feel it through the seat, floor or steering wheel.
- Visible engine movement. With the bonnet open and a helper gently revving the engine in neutral, a worn mount lets the engine lift or rock noticeably. Stand clear of the fan and belts when doing this.
- Cracked, split or separated rubber on the mount itself.
- Fluid around a hydraulic mount, which means it has leaked.
- Exhaust or hose contact. If the exhaust knocks on the body or a hose rubs, the engine may be sitting lower or moving more than it should.
Some of these symptoms overlap with worn suspension or drive shaft parts. A clunk on bumps is more likely suspension. Check our suspension and steering department if the noise follows the road surface rather than the throttle.
How to Choose Engine Mounts
Match the Vehicle, Engine and Gearbox
The same car model can use different mounts for petrol and diesel engines, manual and automatic gearboxes, and different model years. Our listings name the model, years, engine size and gearbox type where known. The Camry 2.5L kit, for example, is for the L4 2.5L automatic of the listed years. Check all of those details.
Compare Reference Numbers
Many mounts are sold by interchange numbers from the aftermarket and from the vehicle maker. Our Honda Civic 1.8L coupe motor mount kit lists the A65048, A65021 and A65087 references it replaces. Compare those numbers with your old mounts or a parts catalogue.
Check Position: Left, Right, Front, Rear
Each mount has a fixed position. A left mount will not fit on the right. Pairs such as the BMW engine mount 22117581617 and 22117581618 are sold as left and right together for that reason.
Hydraulic or Solid
Replace like with like. Fitting a solid mount where the car was designed for a fluid one can add vibration. If your car has electronic active mounts, check that the replacement has the same connector.
Full Kit or Single Mount
On a car with high mileage, a kit usually makes sense. Labour is a large part of the cost and the job is easier while the engine is already supported. On a newer car with one damaged mount, a single part is fine.
Fitting and Safety Advice
Engine mount work means taking the weight of the engine off its supports. Done badly, it is dangerous. If you are not experienced, have a qualified mechanic fit the mounts.
- Support the engine properly. Use an engine support bar or a jack with a wide pad under a strong point such as the sump flange, as your service manual advises. Never work under an engine held only by a jack.
- Replace one mount at a time where possible. This keeps the engine in position and makes bolt holes line up.
- Use the correct bolts and figures. Mount bolts are load-bearing. Follow your service manual for tightening values, and replace any bolts it says are one-use.
- Let the engine settle before final tightening if the manual says so. This stops a mount being pre-loaded in a twisted position.
- Check clearances afterwards. Make sure hoses, wiring, the exhaust and drive shafts are clear of the body and subframe.
- Road test. Pull away, brake, change gear and reverse. Clunks should be gone and idle should be smoother.
Good tools make the job safer. Our tools and equipment category has workshop tools, and our wrenches category has spanners for tight mount bolts.
How to Make New Engine Mounts Last
- Fix oil leaks. Engine oil softens rubber. A leaking valve cover or seal above a mount shortens its life. Our gaskets category has the seals to fix it.
- Keep the engine running smoothly. A misfire shakes the engine and loads the mounts more.
- Drive smoothly. Hard launches and aggressive gear changes put large shock loads on the mounts.
- Inspect at each service. A quick look for cracks or leaks catches problems early.
Mount Layouts on Different Cars
Knowing your car's layout tells you how many mounts to expect and which one is most likely to have failed.
Front-Wheel Drive with a Transverse Engine
The engine sits sideways across the car with the gearbox at one end. There is usually a mount on the engine side, a mount on the gearbox side, and one or two torque mounts at the front or rear of the subframe. The torque mounts take the hardest work because they stop the engine rolling under acceleration and braking. Kits such as the Civic coupe set of 3 cover a layout like this.
Rear-Wheel Drive with a Longitudinal Engine
The engine points front to back, with the gearbox behind it. Two engine mounts sit low on each side of the block and a single transmission mount supports the gearbox at the rear. Many BMW and Mercedes-Benz models use this design. The Mercedes kit with three front mounts and a rear transmission mount follows this pattern.
Larger Engines and V6 Layouts
Bigger engines can need more mounts, sometimes including active or hydraulic units at the front and rear. That is why the Accord V6 kit has six pieces. More mounts means more parts to check for fit, so read the listing photos and part numbers carefully.
A Simple Mount Check You Can Do
You do not need a lift to get a first idea of mount condition. With the car parked on level ground, the handbrake on and the wheels chocked, open the bonnet and look at each mount you can see. Use a torch. Look for cracks in the rubber, rubber pulling away from the metal, and oily or wet patches on hydraulic mounts.
Next, ask a helper to sit in the car with a foot firmly on the brake. On an automatic, they select drive and then reverse while you watch the engine from the side, never from in front. A healthy engine rocks a little. A worn mount lets it jump or lift clearly. On a manual, a gentle blip of the throttle in neutral shows similar movement. If you find a clear fault, note which mount it is and look up its part number before ordering.
Who This Category Is For
- Drivers who notice new vibration or clunking and want to fix the cause.
- Home mechanics with the tools and experience to support an engine safely.
- Workshops that want a complete kit for one job instead of sourcing mounts separately.
- Owners of older cars refreshing a high-mileage car so it feels tight again.
Our Current Range of Engine Mounts
Our current range includes eight mount products for Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Mini models:
- Honda Civic 1.8L coupe motor mount kit, set of 3
- Honda Accord 3.0L V6 motor mount kit, set of 6
- Camry 2.5L motor mount kit, 4 pieces
- 1J0199262C engine mount and transmission mount for Volkswagen Passat
- Mercedes engine mount kit with rear transmission mount
- BMW transmission mount 22316771219, 2 pieces
- BMW X1, X2 and Mini Cooper Clubman engine mount set, 3 pieces
- BMW engine mount pair 22117581617 and 22117581618
Each product page lists the models, years and reference numbers it covers. Check them against your car before ordering. We add new engine mounts as we expand the range.
Related Engine Categories
Engine mounts sit in our engine parts category within the main auto parts department. These sibling categories cover the rest of the engine:
- Crankshafts and bearings, for knocks that come from inside the engine
- Camshafts, solenoids and cam sensors
- Timing belts and chains
- Gaskets and seals to stop oil reaching the mounts
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do engine mounts last?
It varies with driving style, heat, oil leaks and the type of mount. Many last a long time, but rubber ages, so older and high-mileage cars are the most likely to need them. Inspect them at each service.
Should I replace all engine mounts at once?
On a high-mileage car, it is usually worth it. The old mounts have aged together. Replacing one leaves the others to fail soon after and can load the new one unevenly. On a newer car with one damaged mount, a single replacement is fine.
Can I drive with a broken engine mount?
A badly failed mount lets the engine move too far, which can strain hoses, cables, the exhaust and drive shafts. Have it checked and replaced soon.
What is the difference between an engine mount and a transmission mount?
They do the same job in different places. Engine mounts support the engine. A transmission mount supports the gearbox. Together they hold the whole powertrain. Several of our kits include both.
Can I fit engine mounts myself?
Some mounts are easy to reach, others need parts removed. Every mount job needs the engine supported safely. If you do not have an engine support and experience, use a qualified mechanic.
Why does my car vibrate more at idle in drive?
In drive, an automatic gearbox puts load on the engine, which twists it on its mounts. Worn mounts pass more of that vibration into the cabin. It is one of the most common signs of tired mounts.
Do new engine mounts feel different at first?
Often, yes. New rubber is firmer than old, tired rubber, so the car may feel a little tighter and you may notice less engine movement straight away. That is normal and usually what owners want after replacing worn mounts.
What if I am not sure which mount I need?
Send us your model, year, engine and gearbox details through our contact page. Our FAQ page and return and refund policy explain the ordering process, and shipping is covered on our shipping policy page.
Buy Engine Mounts at Easy Life Markets
Easy Life Markets sells engine mounts, transmission mounts and full motor mount kits for the vehicles listed on each product page. Match the model, engine, gearbox and reference numbers, decide between a single mount and a kit, and support the engine safely during fitting. Fresh mounts make an older car feel solid and quiet again, and that is a repair you notice every time you drive.